Christmas Island 2022: Part One

Once again, we were flying out over the Indian Ocean. Our Virgin Australia flight on Sunday 11 December went as scheduled (I quit flying Qantas years ago). It was an easy-peasy, special flight. I had an entire row to myself and I did flip-up the armrests and lay down across the three seats. Not bad at all.

Christmas Island, joy

We arrived on Christmas Island and went through immigration and customs. Just as on Cocos, it is Australia, but it’s also considered international. No, I do not understand it. Then we collected our 3 hired vehicles and drove to the motel to drop our bags. 

First timers began ticking off the easy birds like Island Thrush, Christmas Island Swiftlet, and Christmas Imperial Pigeon all of which were seen in the first hour or so. We also had a look at the roosting Red-footed Boobies. They can be seen flying on Cocos, but the best looks are definitely on Christmas perching in the trees.

The lovely and ubiquitous Island Thrush

 

The do have really red feet

Then we made a stop by the grocery. I grabbed my usual little cans of tuna and some rice crackers (and chips, I was walking-off any weight they were adding and besides, I need the salt haha). Richard bought some chips that had caught his eye. They were Red Rock Deli, roast chicken with sage and burnt butter. He opened them outside the store and I think we finished the bag while we stood there. They are currently my favourite flavour of chips. I do NOT need a favourite flavour of chips! No, not if it was ever so, and unfortunately they are available in Victoria too. I bought a couple of bags last week and they’re gone now. I will reserve them for special occasions.

The next morning we headed off early. We were on a mission. A couple of weeks before, there had been a lovely, little Stonechat on Christmas Island. The area where it had been seen required about a four and a half kilometre walk. It was mostly flat however, much of it was through thigh-high brush and vines. As it turned out that brush though which we were ploughing followed what had been the road on which we had driven in to see the Purple Heron in December 2019 (Chapter 22 in “More Australian Birding Tales”). The road had been closed shortly after that, and the bush had reclaimed its space.

We came out into a very rocky area where the bird had last been seen (I mean it is a ‘Stone’chat after all). We spread out and began searching. Richard climbed up on a hill to get a good vantage point from which to scan for the bird. For about the next couple of hours or so (I purposefully did not look at my watch) we searched, scanned and stared into and around that whole area. We certainly gave it a good go, but to no avail. I’m sure the bird had moved along (or more likely, become a meal for something). Regardless, it was no longer there. We trudged back to our vehicles and went for lunch.

Richard's first perch

That afternoon brought me my favourite Lifer of the trip (I loved them all of course, but there’s always a favourite). Following the Stonechat trek we had driven a few of the many back ‘roads’ looking for a bird that tends to lurk along track and trails. We did not see it and returned in the arvo. Driving those tracks again, it was not long before Richard’s voice came through the radio, “Malayan Night-Heron on the track in front of our vehicle.”

Judy Leitch's phenomenal photo! It is a brilliant shot and I thank her for sharing it with me

Those words were like an electric shock though my body. It was there. The Malayan Night-Heron was there. Of all of the birds that I knew had been seen recently, and might still be around, it was the one that I most wanted to see. However, we were on a one-lane track and I was driving the second car and the bird was in front of the first car.

Again, Richard’s voice came through the radio, “Bruce, can you drive slowly up to my left?” I think I just said, “Yes.” And very slowly I steered the old Rav-4 off the track and just to the left of Richard’s old Rav-4. We crept by until we could see the Night-Heron standing on the shoulder of the track. Our vehicle was just inches from Richard’s and we could see the bird! I was taking photos out of my window and over the side-view mirror as best I could.

My friend Geoff Christie was in the passenger seat. He lives part of the year on Cocos and had made the trip over to Christmas with us. Geoff handed me his camera to take a few photos out of the driver’s side window. Again, I was shooting over the side-view mirror. I hope I got some okay ones for him.

The Night-Heron moved a bit along the shoulder. I carefully backed the Rav-4 and left room for the back car to roll into our spot. In the end, everyone got to see the bird. As I mentioned, Judy Leitch took the excellent photo above. She is a talented photographer, keen birder and excellent company as well. I will include a few of my recording shots as well. I am very happy getting any photos of this wonderful bird.

My first Lifer look at the Malayan Night-Heron through the windscreen

I love that bird!

I will make this the end of Part One. There is a lot more to come in Part Two, including a bunch of photos of Christmas Island and one more Lifer for me.

Sending love as I do ❤️

Cocos/Keeling Islands 2022: Part Two

Mr funny-man, Richard Baxter and me looking like we're standing in front of a fake background

Early Wednesday afternoon, most of the group had headed over to a place called, ‘the farm’ to have a look for an Asian Koel that was being seen there. 

On the 'farm' about where I saw my lifer Pintail Snipe

I had already seen that bird so I took the rare (non-existent?) opportunity for a lay-down. I had only barely begun to drift off when there was a banging (not a knocking, but a loud banging) on the motel room door. I yelled, “WHAT?” I was three-quarters asleep, exhausted, confused, and not happy with being awakened. A very serious sounding voice answered, “This is the police. We have a warrant for a Bruce Richardson.” Honestly, my first thought was, “what has caught up with me?” I mean, I’ve been a pretty good boy for so many years now but regardless, it gave me pause. Then the voice said, “Pintail Snipe, grab your bins and camera. I stepped into my crocs and was out the door in seconds. Yes, Richard Baxter has a sense of humour and soon I had Pintail Snipe joy, finally. 

Yep, he drove us to the farm and the snipe flushed and we saw it. Then we tried to refind it for the next half hour or so, but did not. We were to see more on Christmas Island, but I am getting ahead of the tale. 

 As a Lifer treat, Richard took me over to the Barge. It’s an old boat set up on the edge of the beach as a little restaurant. The kitchen was closed, but we could still sit and take nourishment from the view, that incredible, glorious view. I will post a few photos. I swear the pic of Richard and me looks like it faked in front of a green-screen. It is that beautiful there.

Wednesday evening we rode the ferry again to Home Island for a Malay dinner at the Seafront Restaurant. We had done that during the December 2019 trip as well and both times, it was one of the best dinners I have ever had. Like the first time, it was a buffet however this time it did not include Gong Gong my favourite mollusc ever (amongst many favourite molluscs in my life). I told the owner, Siti (not sure of that spellng) how much I had enjoyed them and she said to let her know in advance next time and she would make sure they had them on the buffet. The genuine friendliness and hospitality at that restaurant and on that island touches my heart. They are such lovely people there. The other food in the buffet made up for the missing Gong Gong. How on earth can a simple chicken leg be that good?  And the prawns were wonderful.

Oceana House, gorgeousness outside of time

Thursday, I did some birding on my own. That was when I got the great views of my previous Lifer Chinese Sparrowhawk at the hide. I posted those photos in the last blog. I mainly just spent some time by myself roaming about West Island. I had mixed emotions about it. I love and adore that place, love it, full-stop. But I do not enjoy things ‘alone’ so much. But it is my situation now. I will post a few photos from that day. That evening there was one of the most beautiful sunsets of the trip. It did not bode well for our flight to Christmas Island the next day.

Ubiquitous and lovely, a White-breased Waterfowl

Also ubiquitous and gorgeous, a Green Junglefowl

Out by the landing strip at the airport

Slightly out of focus selfie out and about by myself

My last sunset on Cocos 

(A short blog entry about this was already posted, but I wanted to include it here as part of this tale as well) I wrote most of this part in Perth on Saturday, 10 December. I had not planned to be in Perth, but the weather forced Virgin to cancel our flight Christmas Island. They gave us accommodations in a gorgeous and quite posh hotel downtown. The rooms were beautiful and we got free breakfast and dinner. (I will post some photos).

I love a good mattress... I did get a nap too!

Nighttime view from my room 

Saturday morning after breakfast, I just wandered around the corner and happened to meet a guy who runs a specialty bookstore (sci-fi and fantasy) Stefen’s Books. We got talking and he suggested I go to the big bookstore, Boffins Books, down the street. He said that they had my new book and that I should go sign their copies. So he called them and they were expecting me when I got over there. It was very nice indeed.

Stefen of Stefen's Books who sent me to Boffins

Me in an elevator that only works with the room key-card. Just more poshness

We did fly to Christmas on a specially scheduled flight on Sunday and I had an entire row to myself. Best flight ever. 

Geoff Christie on the other side and me with my open row. I did lay down. Joy

 I will mention again that I am planning to do my friend, Richard's Torres Strait trip in 2024. The dates are not yet set, but I will keep y'all posted. Here's a link Richard Baxter's Torres Strait trip

More soon from Christmas Island, sending love as I do ❤️

Cocos/Keeling Islands 2022: Part One

One of the many, many beautiful spots on Cocos

I reckon I could not have built up a memory more wonderful than I had about Cocos. I fell in love with everything about it in December 2019. I wrote glowingly about the islands in “More Australian Birding Tales”. I do love it and I loved it again. The accommodations were not as good as last time, and the internet did not work, but the ‘vibe’ as Richard Baxter calls it, did not disappoint what-so-ever. It radiates from those islands. I wish I could have more time there to absorb it better (a week is not nearly long enough). It is so very, truly special to me.

On the first of December my generous, dear friend Peter gave me a ride to the airport (that helps to ease a lot of my anxiety). After navigating the check-in and security, I flew the 4-ish hours to Perth. There I spent the night at my usual overpriced, and underwhelming, airport motel (it has a free shuttle). Friday morning early, I flew to Cocos. For all of my lifelong anxieties, I do not have a problem with flying itself. It is the details of booking, checking-in, and organising that can fry my nerves. But with various coping skills practiced over the years, I get through it. It can be painfully difficult, but it is worth it. I think.

We had a group of 11 on Richard’s tour. There were a lot of good people including old friends and some new friends. It was a first visit to the islands for my dear friend Alan Stringer. I know he loved it.  

 As you do first thing on Cocos, we dropped our bags at our rooms and went to the little grocery for some limited shopping. After that we rode around a bit. It was hard to believe I was back. It was hard to believe it had been three years. It is hard for me to believe anything in the ‘moment.’ I work on that. I work at doing that, but I have a very difficult time appreciating joy ‘alone.’ One of the main reasons I write is to look back and remember, realise, and enjoy an experience afterwards. And then I can share it and it becomes more real for me. It seems a little backwards, and it is, but it’s me.

Behind our motel

Saturday morning brought me my first Lifer of the trip, a Chinese Sparrowhawk. We saw it from Richard’s bird hide. It’s not actually his of course. It was funded by the Cocos local council and the Cocos tourism bureau, but he designed it and is responsible for it being there. I went back to the hide by myself a few days later and had even better views of the Sparrowhawk. We also saw the resident Cocos female Northern Pintail. Birders used to have to travel in Geoff Christie’s boat to Horsburgh Island to see that duck, but it has now (most often, but not always) moved over to West Island and into the pond in front of the hide. Not bad, hey?

Front view from the hide

The Cocos Northern Pintail from the hide

Chinese Sparrowhawk flying in front of the hide

Very heavily cropped shot of the Chinese Sparrowhawk perching

Richard Baxter in 'his' hide

Sunday was a gorgeous day for the trip over to South Island in canoes to see the rare Saunders’s Terns. I wrote about this in chapter 21 of “More Australian Birding Tales”. It is so beautiful over there and we owe a big thank you to Cocos Island Adventure Tours for once again providing us with the canoes and their delightful company over to see the terns and back.

Saunders's Tern (the correct spelling includes the extra "s")

A photo of the group taken by Jaali Barton of Cocos Island Adventure Tours

Speaking of ‘and back’, on the way back from South Island and viewing the terns, we stopped at a little island to see the Blue-tailed Skink. It was an endemic on Christmas Island, but has become extinct in the wild there. However through a breeding program, they have been released into the wild on this island in Cocos (with no predators) and they have flourished. They are a gorgeous little lizard. 

And then we went snorkelling. We stopped at a small island and snorkelled around it. It was a truly OMG experience. 

It was glorious. I saw the most amazing, diverse and colourful reef fishes I have ever seen snorkelling anywhere in the world (and I have snorkelled in Florida, Hawaii, Grand Cayman Island and Christmas Island). I wish I had had an underwater camera. I was in awe as I glided through the water staring at these dazzling little fish. I adore snorkelling; it is like birding but you get to fly with the birds and those little finned birds are crazily colourful. That’s a memory I will hold in my old brain and cherish. I managed to take a photo from the plane of that little island as we were leaving Cocos. Here it is...

On Tuesday we spent the day on Home Island. The air-conditioned people-ferry makes the trip over from West Island several times throughout the day. It is a lovely ride. There had been a Grey Wagtail seen over there and we hoped it was still around. 

It had been in an area near the tip and some sort of sewage or water tanks (I am not sure what they were). There was a chain-link fence around that area and noisy workers in there at times.  

First thing that morning, a couple of us had a very brief sighting of the Wagtail flying out of that area, but the group could not refind it. Then the workers arrived and that was that.  

However, after lunch several of us who really wanted that bird went back over. The workers were not there and soon we saw a little Wagtail fly down into one of the cement tanks (as Richard had described it doing previously). We could not see it once it was in the tank, but we knew it was there. Most of the group gathered around waiting and watching. Soon it flew out, looped around a bit and went off into the big tree up the back. My friend Nick Thompson did a great job getting a lovely flight shot and I will include a ‘back of the camera’ pick of it here. If there is a third book, I will include his original shot with his permission and credited. As are a few of my friends, he is a damn good bird photographer. So I had my second Lifer of the trip and some wonderful, shared Lifer High. The best.

Grey Wagtail photo courtesy of my friend, Nick Thompson

There is much more to tell, but this has gotten too long for me so I will stop here and write a second Cocos blog entry soon. I will be writing blog entries about the Christmas Island trip as well. 

And I will mention that since doing this trip twice with my friend, Richard Baxter, I am finally going to go on his Torres Strait trip in 2024 (March or April, the dates will be announced). It is a must-do experience for Aussie birders and I am finally going to go. I will include a link to Richard's ISLANDS OF THE NORTHERN TORRES STRAIT  tour and I will tell y’all much more about it as I learn the dates and details. BUT, I AM going. 

Stay tuned for Cocos Part Two.

Sending love as I do ❤️