Christmas Island 2022: Part Two

Tuesday the 13th was a good day. I am not even slightly bothered by the number 13. Triskaidekaphobia is not amongst my fears. It was a lucky day for many of us. It was a day that included a bit of sight-seeing as well as some good birding.

Immature Chinese Pond-Heron

Blow Hole area

We stopped by a local chicken coop and found the Christmas Island resident Java Sparrows for the first timers. Then we had a look at a visiting immature Chinese Pond-Heron by the recreation centre where a Glossy Ibis was standing on the roof. Also at some point during the day we visited the Blow Holes (my date stamps on the photos are a bit out of wacky and I am not sure why. Mostly they are correct). I will be posting some more scenery photos from that day (and other days). But the most important moment of the thirteenth was on the dirt-road out by the end of the runway. 

Our cars were turning around at the end of the road when a small bird perched up on a stick by the fence. It was right beside one of the vehicles. Alan’s voice came though the radio and alerted the group. Richard was out of our car in seconds. I do not recall the sequence of what happened in that minute or so, but we all ended up out of the vehicles and looking at (and taking pictures of) a Shrike. Whatever shrike it was, being a shrike in Australia, it was a mega. It was initially thought to be a Tiger Shrike, after many of excellent photos were studied, the bird was determined to be an immature Brown Shrike. This was a Lifer for most of us. As I have mentioned before, Lifer High is wonderful, but shared Lifer High is the best. 

Below are three stunning photos of the bird taken by my talented birder and photographer friend (and the best dreads in birding) Tanya Hattingh. I will include one of my recording shots too. 

One of my recording shots of the immature Brown Shrike (see why I used Tanya's?)

In the following days, we did a lot of looking around the island. Birding as well as sight-seeing. Many of the places I had been before in 2019 a few were new to me. I do not recall actually going down to the Blow Holes and that was cool. The time on the island gets away. Should these blogs become the third book, I will flesh this tale out more of course. I have notes regarding the experiences, and I don’t want to write everything into the blogs. Then what would be the point of the books?

I will lean heavily on the photos for this blog entry. I will caption them. I liked the sign for Greta Beach. It’s serious about the various dangers there (reminded me a bit of Coober Pedy and its warning signs, but these warnings were mostly ocean related. And the lookout over Flying Fish Cove is always stunning. And there was a Red-tailed Tropicbird chick hanging out in its nest amongst the rocks and a cooperative Brown Booby posed for us. I also saw the nesting Abbott's Booby again. And Richard took one of my favourite photos of me.

Red-tailed Tropicbird chick

Brown Booby

Abbott's Booby on the nest

The Red-tailed Tropicbird chick in the rocks

Lots of warnings 

Richard's photo of me (very possibly the back cover photo if there's a 3rd book)

The view from the Flying Fish Cove overlook 

Golden Bosunbird (a subspecies of White-tailed Tropicbird)

I love old ruins and I enjoyed looking around the old South Port Township. I also enjoyed the old casino grounds and the beautiful beach there. I really need to keep in mind that my balance is not what it used to be. I fell down in beach rocks. I scuffed my knee but I was fine and so was my 13 year old Camera and lens that hit the rocks. I will also include a photo of me in South Point Temple. Namaste my friends. 

The beach below the old casino

My boo-boo

Namaste

On our last night we had an excellent meal at Lucky Ho which is the very good Chinese restaurant on Christmas. I love their food and had eaten there in 2019 as well. And on the way back to our rooms, I grabbed a photo of the Christmas Red Crab Christmas decoration by the roundabout. 

   

Yes I can eat with chopsticks

What a cool Christmas decoration

Our plane did not leave until late afternoon and so on the morning of our last day web had a few interesting things, bird-wise. Firstly the day before, at the ‘farm’, Richard had gotten a brief glimpse at what he thought was a Corn Crake. We really wanted that bird. We searched a lot but had no joy (it also poured rain on us part of the time). The next morning we were there first thing (leaving our accommodation at 5:30am) and we looked everywhere in that farm area that it could possibly be, but it was not around. Dang. 

We had permission to go in there and we searched and searched, but no Corn Crake

We did have a lot of time, so we did some birding around the quarry areas. I’d seen another Pin-tailed Snipe in there the day before. Then on our last look around in there we saw six and I managed a few flight shots of them. I had seen a few Pin-tailed Snipe around (a Lifer just over a week ago). I managed to sort-of get a few pics of them. You can judge for yourselves.

One of my 'recording' shots of a Pin-tailed Snipe

It's on the far right side of the photo and flying away from me (as they do)

And I have to tell you about one of the coolest things that happened. I am literally sitting here smiling as I remember it. To set this up: the other night we had been sitting around the little lounge area in our shared unit. It was Richard, Nick, Alan and me. We were just chatting about stuff in general. Stuff that we’d done or whatnot in our lives. I was talking some about touring and performing. Then Richard showed me how to take an AK-47 away from someone (something I truly hope never to have to do, BUT if I do, now I know how). We did not have an AK-47 so I now also know how to take a camera tripod away from someone should I be attacked by a person with a loaded tripod. Richard used to work in law enforcement. So I asked him, mostly joking around, if he could make that 180 degree turn-around using the handbrake to assist the regular brakes. I had only seen it done in the movies. I forget exactly what his answer was, probably something like, “Of course.” 

On that last morning when we were out in the quarry areas, I was riding with Richard. We had evidently reached the spot where he wanted to stop. Without saying anything, he snatched the handbrake, hit the brakes and spun the wheel. This caused the old Rav-4 make a beautiful 180 degree, sliding turn and come to stop pointed in the opposite direction. It was totally cool. I will always remember it. That's one of those little tales that I look forward to including in the next book. 

I will mention now, and not for the last time, that I have decided to do go on Richard's Torres Strait trip in 2024. The dates are not yet set, but I will keep y’all posted and I do hope that some of you can join us!

Sending love as I do ❤️

Christmas Island 2022: Part One

Once again, we were flying out over the Indian Ocean. Our Virgin Australia flight on Sunday 11 December went as scheduled (I quit flying Qantas years ago). It was an easy-peasy, special flight. I had an entire row to myself and I did flip-up the armrests and lay down across the three seats. Not bad at all.

Christmas Island, joy

We arrived on Christmas Island and went through immigration and customs. Just as on Cocos, it is Australia, but it’s also considered international. No, I do not understand it. Then we collected our 3 hired vehicles and drove to the motel to drop our bags. 

First timers began ticking off the easy birds like Island Thrush, Christmas Island Swiftlet, and Christmas Imperial Pigeon all of which were seen in the first hour or so. We also had a look at the roosting Red-footed Boobies. They can be seen flying on Cocos, but the best looks are definitely on Christmas perching in the trees.

The lovely and ubiquitous Island Thrush

 

The do have really red feet

Then we made a stop by the grocery. I grabbed my usual little cans of tuna and some rice crackers (and chips, I was walking-off any weight they were adding and besides, I need the salt haha). Richard bought some chips that had caught his eye. They were Red Rock Deli, roast chicken with sage and burnt butter. He opened them outside the store and I think we finished the bag while we stood there. They are currently my favourite flavour of chips. I do NOT need a favourite flavour of chips! No, not if it was ever so, and unfortunately they are available in Victoria too. I bought a couple of bags last week and they’re gone now. I will reserve them for special occasions.

The next morning we headed off early. We were on a mission. A couple of weeks before, there had been a lovely, little Stonechat on Christmas Island. The area where it had been seen required about a four and a half kilometre walk. It was mostly flat however, much of it was through thigh-high brush and vines. As it turned out that brush though which we were ploughing followed what had been the road on which we had driven in to see the Purple Heron in December 2019 (Chapter 22 in “More Australian Birding Tales”). The road had been closed shortly after that, and the bush had reclaimed its space.

We came out into a very rocky area where the bird had last been seen (I mean it is a ‘Stone’chat after all). We spread out and began searching. Richard climbed up on a hill to get a good vantage point from which to scan for the bird. For about the next couple of hours or so (I purposefully did not look at my watch) we searched, scanned and stared into and around that whole area. We certainly gave it a good go, but to no avail. I’m sure the bird had moved along (or more likely, become a meal for something). Regardless, it was no longer there. We trudged back to our vehicles and went for lunch.

Richard's first perch

That afternoon brought me my favourite Lifer of the trip (I loved them all of course, but there’s always a favourite). Following the Stonechat trek we had driven a few of the many back ‘roads’ looking for a bird that tends to lurk along track and trails. We did not see it and returned in the arvo. Driving those tracks again, it was not long before Richard’s voice came through the radio, “Malayan Night-Heron on the track in front of our vehicle.”

Judy Leitch's phenomenal photo! It is a brilliant shot and I thank her for sharing it with me

Those words were like an electric shock though my body. It was there. The Malayan Night-Heron was there. Of all of the birds that I knew had been seen recently, and might still be around, it was the one that I most wanted to see. However, we were on a one-lane track and I was driving the second car and the bird was in front of the first car.

Again, Richard’s voice came through the radio, “Bruce, can you drive slowly up to my left?” I think I just said, “Yes.” And very slowly I steered the old Rav-4 off the track and just to the left of Richard’s old Rav-4. We crept by until we could see the Night-Heron standing on the shoulder of the track. Our vehicle was just inches from Richard’s and we could see the bird! I was taking photos out of my window and over the side-view mirror as best I could.

My friend Geoff Christie was in the passenger seat. He lives part of the year on Cocos and had made the trip over to Christmas with us. Geoff handed me his camera to take a few photos out of the driver’s side window. Again, I was shooting over the side-view mirror. I hope I got some okay ones for him.

The Night-Heron moved a bit along the shoulder. I carefully backed the Rav-4 and left room for the back car to roll into our spot. In the end, everyone got to see the bird. As I mentioned, Judy Leitch took the excellent photo above. She is a talented photographer, keen birder and excellent company as well. I will include a few of my recording shots as well. I am very happy getting any photos of this wonderful bird.

My first Lifer look at the Malayan Night-Heron through the windscreen

I love that bird!

I will make this the end of Part One. There is a lot more to come in Part Two, including a bunch of photos of Christmas Island and one more Lifer for me.

Sending love as I do ❤️

Cocos/Keeling Islands 2022: Part Two

Mr funny-man, Richard Baxter and me looking like we're standing in front of a fake background

Early Wednesday afternoon, most of the group had headed over to a place called, ‘the farm’ to have a look for an Asian Koel that was being seen there. 

On the 'farm' about where I saw my lifer Pintail Snipe

I had already seen that bird so I took the rare (non-existent?) opportunity for a lay-down. I had only barely begun to drift off when there was a banging (not a knocking, but a loud banging) on the motel room door. I yelled, “WHAT?” I was three-quarters asleep, exhausted, confused, and not happy with being awakened. A very serious sounding voice answered, “This is the police. We have a warrant for a Bruce Richardson.” Honestly, my first thought was, “what has caught up with me?” I mean, I’ve been a pretty good boy for so many years now but regardless, it gave me pause. Then the voice said, “Pintail Snipe, grab your bins and camera. I stepped into my crocs and was out the door in seconds. Yes, Richard Baxter has a sense of humour and soon I had Pintail Snipe joy, finally. 

Yep, he drove us to the farm and the snipe flushed and we saw it. Then we tried to refind it for the next half hour or so, but did not. We were to see more on Christmas Island, but I am getting ahead of the tale. 

 As a Lifer treat, Richard took me over to the Barge. It’s an old boat set up on the edge of the beach as a little restaurant. The kitchen was closed, but we could still sit and take nourishment from the view, that incredible, glorious view. I will post a few photos. I swear the pic of Richard and me looks like it faked in front of a green-screen. It is that beautiful there.

Wednesday evening we rode the ferry again to Home Island for a Malay dinner at the Seafront Restaurant. We had done that during the December 2019 trip as well and both times, it was one of the best dinners I have ever had. Like the first time, it was a buffet however this time it did not include Gong Gong my favourite mollusc ever (amongst many favourite molluscs in my life). I told the owner, Siti (not sure of that spellng) how much I had enjoyed them and she said to let her know in advance next time and she would make sure they had them on the buffet. The genuine friendliness and hospitality at that restaurant and on that island touches my heart. They are such lovely people there. The other food in the buffet made up for the missing Gong Gong. How on earth can a simple chicken leg be that good?  And the prawns were wonderful.

Oceana House, gorgeousness outside of time

Thursday, I did some birding on my own. That was when I got the great views of my previous Lifer Chinese Sparrowhawk at the hide. I posted those photos in the last blog. I mainly just spent some time by myself roaming about West Island. I had mixed emotions about it. I love and adore that place, love it, full-stop. But I do not enjoy things ‘alone’ so much. But it is my situation now. I will post a few photos from that day. That evening there was one of the most beautiful sunsets of the trip. It did not bode well for our flight to Christmas Island the next day.

Ubiquitous and lovely, a White-breased Waterfowl

Also ubiquitous and gorgeous, a Green Junglefowl

Out by the landing strip at the airport

Slightly out of focus selfie out and about by myself

My last sunset on Cocos 

(A short blog entry about this was already posted, but I wanted to include it here as part of this tale as well) I wrote most of this part in Perth on Saturday, 10 December. I had not planned to be in Perth, but the weather forced Virgin to cancel our flight Christmas Island. They gave us accommodations in a gorgeous and quite posh hotel downtown. The rooms were beautiful and we got free breakfast and dinner. (I will post some photos).

I love a good mattress... I did get a nap too!

Nighttime view from my room 

Saturday morning after breakfast, I just wandered around the corner and happened to meet a guy who runs a specialty bookstore (sci-fi and fantasy) Stefen’s Books. We got talking and he suggested I go to the big bookstore, Boffins Books, down the street. He said that they had my new book and that I should go sign their copies. So he called them and they were expecting me when I got over there. It was very nice indeed.

Stefen of Stefen's Books who sent me to Boffins

Me in an elevator that only works with the room key-card. Just more poshness

We did fly to Christmas on a specially scheduled flight on Sunday and I had an entire row to myself. Best flight ever. 

Geoff Christie on the other side and me with my open row. I did lay down. Joy

 I will mention again that I am planning to do my friend, Richard's Torres Strait trip in 2024. The dates are not yet set, but I will keep y'all posted. Here's a link Richard Baxter's Torres Strait trip

More soon from Christmas Island, sending love as I do ❤️